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I chose the years from 1900 to 1930 because they were a significant period in the evolution of women's fashion, reflecting broad social changes and technological advancements. It's sad to think about how uncomfortable these woman were, yet we know that societal demands took precedence. In the sixties, I remember my mother wearing a girdle, which was a stripped-down version of the corset and am so glad that they are out of style. I imagine Spanx is the latest version of a body shaping devise - a distant relative of the corset, and a much more comfortable one, although I wouldn't wear one.
1900-1910: Edwardian Era
The S-bend was a really weird trend. Around 1904 to 1905, the S-bend silhouette reached its pinnacle of popularity, captivating the fashion world with its distinctive forward-leaning stance. You've probably seen this in the movies. Many fashion drawings and commercials from this era depict this style in an exaggerated form, almost unattainable in reality (I can think of many products that do that today). In everyday life, women often opted for a more understated interpretation of the S-bend, akin to the image described. Who could stand it otherwise?
The allure of this design lay in the bloused bodice, harmoniously paired with the corset, to craft the specific silhouette. The bishop sleeves, a trend that became prominent during the 1910s, incorporated the same bloused pattern, further accentuating the overarching S-bend shape.
The S-bend was not restricted to any time of day, gracing both daily attire and elegant evening wear. However, a noticeable difference was seen in the cut of the bodices, with those designed for evenings typically bearing a more daring and lower cut compared to their daytime counterparts. This trend encapsulated the aesthetic values of the time, presenting a graceful fusion of structure and style that epitomized the early 20th-century fashion.
Women's Edwardian hats were an essential and expressive part of fashion during the Edwardian era (1901-1910). These hats were large, elaborate, and often lavishly adorned, reflecting the period's opulence and feminine style. These were the hats that you avoided at any gathering when you were seated and looking forward!
Edwardian hats were large and wide-brimmed, sometimes almost covering the shoulders. They were designed to sit atop the piled-high hairstyles popular during this period.
While black and white were popular choices, hats came in a variety of colors and were made from materials like straw, velvet, and silk. The selection of materials and colors often denoted the season or occasion.
These hats were not just a fashion statement but also symbolized social status. The complexity and quality of the hat could signify the wearer's social rank and wealth. Wearing a hat was also considered a mark of propriety, especially when outdoors.
Different types of hats were worn for different occasions. For example, garden parties would see more floral and light-colored hats, while evening events might feature more glamorous and heavily adorned pieces. I think wearing a smaller version and making your own "hat toppings" would be a fun idea.
Renowned milliners of the time, such as Caroline Reboux, influenced the styles and trends. The artistic creations of these designers were often considered works of art, and who hasn't dreamed about wearing one of these!?!
Edwardian hats were not merely accessories; they were statements of elegance, status, and femininity. Their grandeur and elaborate design encapsulate the luxurious and ornate fashion sensibilities of the time. Whether used to complement an outfit or to make a bold statement, these hats were an integral part of the Edwardian woman's wardrobe. I often wonder how these hats were stored. Boxes, presumably, but they must have been large!
As the Edwardian era waned and World War I began, the trend towards oversized and overly adorned hats shifted towards simpler and more practical designs.
1910s: World War I Influence
The onset of World War I marked a profound shift in women's fashion, reflecting the broader societal changes happening at the time. Practicality became essential and changes occurred in women's fashion during the war.
World War I required a significant number of men to go to the frontlines, leaving a labor gap in many industries. Women stepped into these roles, taking on jobs that were traditionally considered men's work. This shift necessitated more practical and comfortable clothing.
As women became more active in the workforce, shorter hemlines allowed for greater freedom of movement. Skirts were no longer trailing the floor but were instead cut to ankle or calf length. This made it easier for women to walk, work, and even ride bicycles.
The previously popular S-bend silhouette, characterized by corseted waists and large hats, became impractical for working women. The wartime fashion shifted to a straighter and simpler silhouette. Corsets were often replaced with less restrictive undergarments, allowing for more natural and comfortable movement.
The war led to material shortages, and many fabrics were rationed for military use. This contributed to the simplification of women's clothing, with less ornamentation and the use of more modest and durable fabrics.
Designers like Coco Chanel played a significant role in shaping wartime fashion. Chanel introduced more relaxed and practical designs, such as jersey fabric dresses, that were well-suited to the demands of the time.
The changes in fashion were not just about
comfort and practicality; they also symbolized a shift in women's social roles. The move toward more functional clothing mirrored women's increasing independence and their essential contributions to the war effort.
One of the more unusual fashion trends (and ghastly!) the hobble skirt, found its inspiration from a rather unexpected source. The design, reminiscent of the Japanese kimono, traces its origins to an aviation event in Le Mans, France, in 1908. Mrs. Edith Ogilby Berg, the first American woman to fly as a passenger, secured her ride with the Wright Brothers, lasting two minutes and seven seconds in the air. To ensure modesty during the flight, she cleverly tied a rope around her skirt at her ankles, preventing it from billowing in the wind. As she disembarked, a French fashion designer took note of her unique walk with her skirt still tied and saw creative potential. This moment of practical innovation servedon and modernity at the dawn of the 20th century. The hobble skirt was impractical and the trend only lasted from1908-1914.
1920s: The Roaring Twenties
Women's fashion in the 1920s was revolutionary, marking a significant departure from the previous decade. Often known as the "Roaring Twenties," this era saw a significant shift towards more liberated, comfortable, and modern styles. 1920 was the year that women FINALLY got the right to vote. Here's a detailed look at women's fashion during the 1920s:
The flapper look became iconic of the 1920s, embodying the youthful spirit and rebellion of the time. It was characterized by short, bobbed hair, loose, straight dresses, and a more androgynous appearance.
Skirts and dresses became shorter, rising to knee-length by the mid-1920s. This allowed for greater freedom of movement and was a bold departure from the more conservative hemlines of previous decades.
The corseted, hourglass figure of the Edwardian era was replaced with a straight and loose silhouette. This style was more comfortable and allowed women to dance more freely, reflecting the popularity of jazz music and dance halls.
The 1920s saw the influence of the Art Deco movement, which emphasized geometric patterns, symmetry, and bold colors. This was evident in the fabrics and accessories of the era.
Accessories were an essential part of 1920s fashion. Cloche hats, long strands of pearls, ornate headbands, and bold makeup were popular additions to the overall look.
Though still considered somewhat unconventional, trousers began to appear in women's fashion for sportswear and casual wear. This was another sign of the growing independence and emancipation of women.
Evening dresses were often adorned with sequins, beads, and fringe, reflecting the glamour and excitement of the time. Silk, satin, and other luxurious fabrics were commonly used.
The popularity of dancing led to the creation of more practical and stylish shoes, such as the T-strap and Mary Jane styles.
Fashion designers like Coco Chanel played a continuing and crucial role in defining the fashion of the era. Chanel's introduction of the "little black dress" and the use of jersey fabric were groundbreaking.
The changes in fashion were closely tied to the social and cultural shifts of the time. Women's suffrage, the growth of consumer culture, and urbanization all contributed to the dramatic transformation in fashion.
Women's fashion in the 1920s was characterized by liberation, modernity, and a willingness to break with tradition. The era's styles reflected the broader social changes and the exuberance of the time, setting the stage for continued evolution in women's fashion. Whether through the iconic flapper look or the introduction of new materials and silhouettes, the 1920s were a pivotal moment in fashion history, capturing the spirit and dynamism of the age.
Late 1920s to 1930: Great Depression's Early Impact
The late 1920s to 1930 saw a shift from the youthful rebellion of the early '20s towards more mature and sophisticated styles. The era was marked by a blend of elegance and practicality, reflecting both the optimism of the Roaring Twenties and the economic realities of the impending Depression. The period set the stage for the continued evolution of women's fashion, with new influences and a growing emphasis on individual expression and style.
While the early 1920s were defined by straight and loose-fitting flapper dresses, the late '20s began to see a return to a softer, more feminine silhouette. Waistlines were slightly emphasized, and hemlines began to drop again.
After reaching knee-length in the mid-1920s, hemlines started to descend towards the end of the decade. By 1930, skirts were often mid-calf or even ankle-length, signaling a move away from the boldness of the earlier years.
There was a growing emphasis on elegance and sophistication in women's fashion. Fabrics became more luxurious, and designs more intricate. Evening wear, in particular, became more glamorous, with bias-cut gowns that clung to the body becoming popular.
The Wall Street Crash of 1929 and the ensuing Great Depression had a noticeable effect on fashion. Extravagance began to give way to more conservative and practical styles. Quality and versatility became more valued, and there was a shift towards more subdued colors.
The influence of sportswear continued to grow, reflecting the increasing importance of leisure and outdoor activities. Items like trousers and tailored suits became more accepted for women, contributing to a more relaxed and functional wardrobe.
While the cloche hat remained popular, new styles began to emerge. Wide-brimmed hats and berets gained traction. Accessories like gloves and handbags continued to be essential complements to an outfit.
The glamour of Hollywood began to have a significant impact on fashion. Movie stars like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich became fashion icons, and their on-screen looks were widely emulated.
The late '20s saw an interest in exotic and international styles. Asian, African, and Middle Eastern influences could be seen in fabrics, patterns, and accessories.
Innovations in textiles and manufacturing led to new fabrics and designs. Rayon, for example, became a popular and more affordable alternative to silk.
Designers like Elsa Schiaparelli began to rise to prominence during this period, bringing new ideas and creativity to women's fashion.
Today, women are gratefully more relaxed and have little pressure to conform with restrictive clothing. It took a while to get here, and I am glad we did...but those Edwardian hats sure look fun!
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